The hype around Chef David Chang’s first west coast restaurant has resulted in explosive popularity and seemingly impossible reservations. A close friend was lucky enough to secure reservations for us, and we had a wonderful meal at Majordomo. As a fan of both The Mind of a Chef and Ugly Delicious, I knew this meal would not disappoint. Located in northern Chinatown, the restaurant is steps away from the Los Angeles State Historic Park in an industrial looking building. Here are some highlights from our meal there.
Stand alone, this pasta tastes exactly how it looks. It stands up to any pasta from a fancy Italian restaurant, and the truffles provided a perfect balance of cheesy and creamy flavors. After we ate the dish, our server was kind enough to explain that, with the exception of a small amount of butter, there was no dairy in the dish. As a cheese lover, I sat in disbelief. I could not believe such a delicately made pasta dish had no cream or cheese. Chef Chang created this dish by fermenting chickpeas, and the result of the fermentation is cheesy and creamy like flavor. This dish impressed me because of its innovative approach while honoring textures and flavors of an amazing pasta.
When we were steamed, the server recommended an off-menu special, peas and ham. This dish was not only beautiful but also perfectly cooked. The peas and leaves were slightly firm, but perfectly tender, topped with shaved ham and served with a white cream sauce.
The bing with caviar and butter was the best dish of our night. The butter used in the dish is aged in Brooklyn caves alongside wheels of blue cheese. As a result, the butter had a complex and rich blue cheese flavor. The generous portion of butter, topped with caviar, were unexpected toppings for a Chinese style flatbread, but the hi-light of the meal. The butter gave the bing the rich flavor of blue cheese, without the off-putting stinkiness you would attribute to blue cheese. This dish is a must-have at Majordomo.
At the end of the Ugly Delicious bbq episode, Chef Chang gathers some celebrity friends and they enjoy giant slabs of bone-in BBQ beef. This exact dish is a menu item at Majordomo, and we knew we had to have it. If you plan to dine at Majordomo, keep in mind that you can pre-order the larger shared plates. My party had a 9 pm reservation, and when we ordered, slight panic ensued as our server wasn’t sure if they had sold out of the whole plate short rib. We were lucky enough to get the last one. If you know what largely shared dishes you want to order, call in advance to pre-order to avoid any disappointment.
Overall, our group enjoyed the meal. As with all restaurants, some dishes are unforgettable, while others are thoughtfully executed but not memorable. Chef Chang successfully created multiple unforgettable dishes in a singular meal. I am eager to return to try more of the menu items.
1725 Naud St.
Los Angeles, CA, 90012