Spotlight: Azur Beverly Hills

As a refined Angeleno trying to keep abreast of the food scene, you know how hard it can be to stay informed of the revolving door that is the openings and closings of hot new restaurants you’re constantly hearing about. By the time you get around to checking out that buzzy new taqueria, you discover it’s been turned into a boba shop. 

To complicate matters further, ours is a city like no other because it’s not like we have a central dining district where we all congregate. On the contrary, edible L.A. spans every imaginable form of cuisine on any given boulevard from Artesia north to Foothill, and any neighborhood between PCH and the 605. 

All this preamble to suggest that instead of assailing you, dear reader, with a barrage of clickbaity fluff about “must-try” hotspots all over town, in which you’ll spend more on gas ($6/gallon!) than on dinner, I’d like to offer you a deeper dive by beginning to spotlight this year a handful of truly memorable dining experiences worthy of your precious time and hard-earned money. 

Dining in comfort and style (courtesy photo)

So let’s begin with a trip to the French Riviera hidden in the heart of Beverly Hills’ Golden Triangle. After a soft opening late last month, Azur Beverly Hills is opening in grand fashion this week. 

After stepping off the glitz of Canon Drive, you’re suddenly transported, immersed sensorily in another time and place – it’s not the rustic, peasantry vibe of Provence; it’s more elegant, urbane – Saint-Tropez, perhaps. 

“Working closely with local artisans and collaborators, we envisioned a space where hospitality, design, cuisine, and music come together seamlessly, creating an atmosphere that naturally embodies the French Art de Vivre,” co-designer Amandine Steppe told me. 

She and her business partner, Claire Arnaud-Aubor, worked for 18 months to define the brand identity from designing the iconic logo, curating the color palette and shaping the aesthetic and atmosphere, working closely with the visionaries behind the establishment, Erik and Florence Chol. (The Chols, fyi, previously launched LouLou Santa Monica to great acclaim and have an extensive background in the local hospitality and entertainment sector.) 

 The luminous intimate dining room, composed of natural textures and hues, transitions effortlessly from sunlit afternoons to candlelit evenings. And on Fridays and Saturdays after 7, the space smoothly evolves into a live music lounge, powered by a hi-fi VOID Acoustic sound system, with a DJ establishing an energetic mood. 

The “heart of the restaurant” (courtesy photo)

“At the heart of the restaurant, we designed a true centerpiece: a bar unlike any other in Los Angeles, crafted in illuminated stone leaf. It brings a sculptural, almost architectural presence to the space, both raw and refined, and instantly distinctive,” Steppe said. 

Behind that bar is the smiling face of John Escalera, who curates his cocktails with the sort of high-end spirits that are usually enjoyed neat. He tells me that the Chols encouraged him to spare no expense in crafting unforgettable cocktails. 

The LeBarDot marries Veuve Clicquot with Chambord, Hendricks, raspberry and sugar. It’s served up and well-chilled. The French Connection features Remy Martin XO, Amaretto and banana liqueur served over a big rock carved atop with the restaurant’s signature “a.” And if you’re concerned about that atypical tropical fruit liqueur as an ingredient, fear not, it merely provides a hint of an unexpected nuance. 

Meanwhile, in the kitchen, Executive Chef Stanley Suchy and French chef Éric Cuenin present a menu they describe as “rooted in Cuisine du Soleil,” with focusing on “seasonality, simplicity and wood-fired techniques, with dishes designed for sharing.” 

Tartare de bouef (courtesy photo)

Being that it’s French-Mediterranean fare, the bread is naturally a house-specialty, made fresh every morning, and the butter is as close as you’ll get to that which you’ll be served at a Parisian bistro petit déjeuner.

The huîtres – that’s oysters for the uninitiated – provide a palate-immersion into the Riviera-oriented menu, and are complemented well by a carpaccio of delicate wild sea bass, citrus zest and pomegranate, shimmering in olive oil. 

Two pasta dishes both warrant discussion. First, the poached lobster bisque spaghettini, served with the tail, is as visually stunning as it is decadent (see cover photo). The other is a gigli pasta in a beurre blanc sauce topped tableside with a good portion of a shaved black truffle. 

Filet Mignon — sans green peppercorn sauce and frites (photo by Scott Bridges)

For the carnivorous, the steak options will test your adventurousness. For the bold of appetite, the night’s options included a Tomohawk as well as a Porterhouse. But for a perfect cut of beef, cooked to medium-rare perfection, you can’t beat the seared prime Creekstone Farms filet Mignon. That is, of course, until you top it with the delectable green peppercorn sauce, served alongside crispy medium-thick fries.

To complete the meal, consider the Crème Brûlée à la Lavande, which the chef describes as a “silky lavender infused egg custard with a crisp caramelized sugar crust.” The lavender is very subtle, providing a nice touch of complexity. Or as a palate cleanser, the Citron Givré, a beautiful frozen lemon shell concealing a delightful lemon sorbet inside. 

So, if you’re like me and overwhelmed with all the hype about new eateries springing up here and there, I invite you to begin curating a short list of dining establishments that will provide memories you’ll treasure and stories you’ll share. Cheers. 

Lemon sorbet the Azur way (photo by Scott Bridges)

Spotlight: Azure Beverly Hills

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