Technically, summer doesn’t begin for another month, but who cares about technicalities when it’s 85 degrees at noon. The bountiful season unofficially kicked off last Saturday (as I write this, or May 16). At 11 a.m., actually. In Santa Monica. Barker Hangar, to be exact. For it was there and then that The Infatuation’s EEEEEATSCON Los Angeles cut the ribbon on Summer ‘26. 

The festival gods were kind, delivering a warm and sunny weekend for foodie types. Live music and DJs delivered an amped-up soundtrack to keep the energy going. But it was the culinary magic that overwhelmed the senses and provided the greatest pleasure. 

This year’s event featured unique, just-for-the-event collaborations between chefs you might not have ever even considered in the same food fantasy. Restaurants from cities as far apart as New York and Miami and New Orleans shared the table with our own favorite eateries in what I can only imagine exists on the other side of The Pearly Gates. With the caveat that I would hope the lines in Heaven are shorter, the portions larger, and the prices cheaper. But such is life. 

A couple of this year’s most celebrated collabs were Jitlada teaming up with Two Hommés, as well as Tacos Los Cholos pairing with Cowy Burger (of Miami). The former is a combo that has me thinking this bi-continental confluence should be the next fusion in the food world. Just consider the spice profile and the flavor possibilities of Thai-West African cuisine. As for the latter, it was a natural marriage of two carnivorous palates, whose affinity for meats is evident in every bite. 

In all, more than two dozen stands served up their own unique miniature feasts to a hungry crowd. It was too much for one man to fully sample (in terms of satiation capacity, as well as budget). Fortunately, my instincts were sharp and my decisions paid off. Below are a couple of my bullseye hits.

Amboy. The chili dog is served on a toasty brioche bun, with the dog protruding from both ends, so as to deliver a couple of bites of uninterrupted meat. The chili was of the exact consistency, not too runny, not too thick, and didn’t soggy up the bread. In fact, it was worthy of being its own menu item. But it’s the frankfurter that steals the show, bursting with juiciness and complexity that you just can’t find in a ballpark weiner. 

Katsu Sando. The classic Japanese egg sandwich is done to loving perfection here, from the kewpie mayo to the delicately toasted white bread. I learned that this joint is a small sandwich shop in Chinatown, which has expanded to a second site in Monterey Park. And my earnest hope is that they’ll consider a third location closer to my part of town, as they would be a smash hit in the Sawtelle District. 

But what I really wanted to sample was the salmon ceviche of The Hummingbird, an Echo Park establishment from the legendary Ricardo Zarate. However, as I got into the rather short line – about half an hour before the event even opened to the general public – I saw the ceviche was listed as “sold out.” No wonder the line was short. Among the worst two words a diner can hear: sold out. This wasn’t Heaven after all. As a matter of fact, it was about this time that I noticed it was feeling a little uncomfortably warm…