No. 10 Scores Again, this time in Los Angeles

A dozen years ago, Italy took center stage as its national soccer team hoisted the FIFA World Cup Trophy, thanks in large part to the man they called “the little artist,” Juventus star Alessandro Del Piero, number 10. Today, his artistry is evident not on the pitch, but in the dining room of the Beverly Grove restaurant that bears his iconic jersey number.

Situated in the heart of the culinary Mecca of the West Third Street corridor, No. 10 is a modern, pan-regional Italian hot spot. The elegant Spacecraft design boasts a showpiece marble bar, comfy leather seating, high ceilings, and dim mood lighting ideal for a romantic evening. It features a spacious dining room, fireside patio, and a private wine room.

No 10 Patio — The fireside patio, overlooking West Third Street (Photo by Scott Bridges)

Helmed by Chefs Nick Parker and Fabio Ugoletti, No. 10 continues a tradition of new wave Italian cuisine, for which L.A. is gaining renown. The menu begins like any other fine dining establishment in town — Caprese with heirloom tomatoes, Mozzarella, pine nuts, and basil; an endive salad and a baby lettuce salad; Kusshi oysters on the half-shell; charred octopus; a charcuterie board; even caviar. In other words, not the traditional sauced meatballs, garlic toast, or basket of fried zucchini.

But the next course is a first-class trip to Italy. The restaurant could thrive simply as a pizzeria. The Neapolitan-style pizzas are prizeworthy. If you’ve got a hundred bucks to drop on a pie, the No. 10 is a masterpiece of minimalism: Stracciatella cheese topped with freshly shaved white truffle. Then there’s the classic Regina Margherita, which will tell you everything you need to know about a pizza joint. If you want to blend Old World and New, there’s the Tartufata, which pairs squash blossom and Burrata and is covered with black truffle.

The Paccheri is gluttony on a plate. (Photo by Scott Bridges)

The pasta is equally decadent. Take, for example, the Paccheri, large pasta shells filled with chunks of Maine lobster, Stracciatella, Pomodorini, drizzled with a crustacean broth, and completed with basil pesto; or the Butternut squash ravioli, encasing sausage and Porcini mushroom. And fear not, carnivores, they’ve got you covered: duck breast, bone-in ribeye, veal Milanese. And for seafood lovers: Diver scallops, grilled whole Maine lobster, and Mediterranean Sea Bass.

The wine list is good, with a selection of both New and Old world varietals. There are only a handful of house cocktails, but as long as you prefer a traditional spirit — gin, vodka, whisky, rum — there’s something here for you. There’s also a full bar if you just want your old standby.

No 10 Tiramisu — Tiramisu? Who knew? (Photo by Scott Bridges)

The dessert list is short and sweet (insert winky emoji here). Bear in mind, you won’t find the traditional tiramisu here. This version is more of a custard-style, served in a tiny pot. Your server is more likely to recommend the No. 10 Sphere, which combines dark, milk, and white chocolate semifreddo with Amaretti cookies, and completed with meringue, chocolate sauce, mint, and huckleberry.

Aperativo is offered from 6 – 9 pm every Wednesday night with live music. For the price of a discounted glass of wine or cocktail ($10), enjoy extraordinary mini bites from their buffet table, like pizza and Jamon sliced in front of you.

Bon appetit!